Nestled on the rugged North Devon coast within Exmoor National Park, the twin towns of Lynton and Lynmouth have long captivated visitors with their dramatic landscapes. Perched high on the hill, Lynton offers sweeping views, while Lynmouth hugs the harbour below. For over a century, the most thrilling way to travel between them hasn’t been a winding road or a steep footpath — it’s been a true marvel of Victorian engineering: the Lynton & Lynmouth Cliff Railway.

This isn’t just any funicular. It’s the world’s highest and steepest water-powered cliff railway still in operation — a feat of ingenuity that has been running almost continuously since Easter Monday 1890. If you’re planning a trip to Devon, this is one experience that blends history, breathtaking views, and a dash of old-world charm you won’t forget.

The Problem That Sparked a Solution

In the late 19th century, the sheer cliff separating the towns — rising some 500 feet — created real headaches. Goods arriving by sea at Lynmouth had to be hauled up by packhorses and carts on punishing gradients. Tourists arriving on paddle steamers faced the same exhausting trek. The animals suffered short working lives, and the difficult access limited the area’s potential as a holiday destination.

Enter a visionary letter to the local paper in 1881 from “Pro Bono Publico,” suggesting a water-powered tramway using the River Lyn. Ideas evolved, and by the mid-1880s, local businessman John Heywood, lawyer Thomas Hewitt, and eventually the wealthy publisher Sir George Newnes got involved. Newnes, who had a residence nearby, provided much of the financing. Civil engineer George Croydon Marks designed the system, and local contractor Robert “Bob” Jones — whose input on braking was crucial — oversaw construction.

Construction began in 1887 with manual labour carving into the limestone cliff. An Act of Parliament in 1888 formally authorised the Lynmouth and Lynton Lift Company, granting rights to draw water from the West Lyn River. Less than three years later, the railway opened to great fanfare.

How Does This Marvel Actually Work?

The railway is a water-balance funicular. Two cars, each capable of carrying up to 40 passengers, are connected by cables over pulleys. Water is piped about a mile from the river to a reservoir at the top station. When it’s time to depart, water fills the tank of the upper car (or is released from the lower one), making it heavier so it descends, pulling the lighter car up.

The 862-foot track has a gradient of about 58% (1 in 1.724) — incredibly steep. A passing loop halfway allows the cars to glide smoothly past each other. Drivers in each car control the speed using sophisticated braking systems, including hydraulic callipers and friction brakes (originally patented by Newnes, Jones, and Marks). The whole system is remarkably low-carbon and sustainable — no electricity needed for propulsion.

Early on, the cars were simple platforms used mostly for freight (coal, ice, even motor cars in later years). In 1947, they were converted into proper passenger carriages. Today, it’s a Grade II listed heritage monument and one of only a handful of fully water-powered examples left worldwide.

The Ride: Views That Take Your Breath Away

Boarding at either the bottom station in Lynmouth or the top in Lynton, you’re treated to ever-changing panoramas of the coastline, the harbour, and the wild Exmoor landscape. The journey is short but unforgettable — that sense of gliding up (or down) the cliff face, with the sea sparkling below, is pure magic. On a clear day, it’s one of the best viewpoints in North Devon.

At the top, the Cliff Top Café is perfectly placed for a Devon cream tea with those same spectacular views. Many visitors make a loop: ride down, explore Lynmouth’s harbour and the Valley of Rocks or Lynmouth Flood Memorial, then ride back up.

A Living Piece of History

What makes the Lynton & Lynmouth Cliff Railway special isn’t just the engineering or the views — it’s that it’s still doing exactly what it was built for, over 135 years later. It survived landslips, wartime, and the march of modernity because it was designed so brilliantly in the first place.

Next time you’re in North Devon, don’t just look at the cliffs. Ride them. In a world of high-tech thrills, there’s something deeply satisfying about a Victorian water-powered railway that continues to delight new generations. It’s not just transport — it’s a journey back in time, with some of England’s finest coastal scenery as your constant companion.